Elderberry

Sambucus canadensis

American elderberry is a native shrub with big, flat clusters of white flowers in June and purple-black berries in late summer. The ripe berries are cooked into jelly, pie, and syrup. It likes sun and steady moisture, and it spreads into a thicket.

A broad, lacy cluster of tiny white elderberry flowers against a dark background, with a smaller cluster below it. — Flower clusters can be 4 to 10 inches across.Photo: Robert H. Mohlenbrock, USDA NRCS, public domain

At a Glance

Plant type	Deciduous shrub
Family	Viburnum family (Viburnaceae). Some sources list it under Adoxaceae.
Other names	American elderberry, common elderberry, American black elderberry. Also listed as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis.
Native range	Eastern and midwestern North America. Common statewide in Missouri, in bottomland woods, along streams and ponds, and in old fields and roadsides.
Mature height	5 to 12 feet
Mature spread	6 to 12 feet, and wider over time as it spreads by root sprouts
Growth rate	Medium. It spreads quickly by root sprouts and can fill in a row within two to three years.
Flowers	Flat-topped clusters of tiny, fragrant, creamy-white flowers, 4 to 10 inches across. Late May to July, mostly in June.
Fruit or seed	Purple-black berries about 1/4 inch across, in drooping clusters. Ripe from late July to September. Edible only when ripe and cooked.
Foliage	Opposite compound leaves, 4 to 12 inches long, usually with 5 to 7 toothed leaflets. Yellow fall color.
Toxicity	The leaves, stems, bark, and roots contain compounds that can release cyanide, and unripe berries are much more toxic than ripe ones. Poisoning causes nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, and weakness. Eat only ripe berries, and always cook them first. Keep leaves and stems out of anything you cook or juice.

Growing Conditions

USDA hardiness zones	4 to 8
Sun	Full sun to part shade. It prefers sunny sites.
Soil	Moist, well-drained, moderately fertile soil. Grows in clay, loam, or sand. Where drainage is poor, plant on a raised bed or berm.
Soil pH	5.5 to 6.5
Water	Medium to high. The plant survives dry spells, but good fruit needs 1 to 2 inches of water a week, especially while the berries ripen.
Tolerates	Wet soil, clay, heat, compacted soil
Does poorly with	Long dry spells while fruiting. Branches can break in high wind or under heavy snow and ice.

Will It Grow Here?

Yes, anywhere in our area. Elderberry is hardy in zones 4 to 8, which covers every zone in our area (6b through 8a).

Zones in Southwest Missouri, Northwest Arkansas, Northeast Oklahoma, and Southeast Kansas
Zone	Grows here?	Towns in this zone
6b (our farm)	Yes	Lebanon, MO; Bolivar, MO; Iola, KS; Garnett, KS
7a	Yes	Springfield, MO; Joplin, MO; Fayetteville, AR; Bentonville, AR
7b	Yes	Harrison, AR; Tulsa, OK; Broken Arrow, OK; Tahlequah, OK
8a	Yes	Van Buren, AR; Alma, AR

Not sure which zone you're in? Look up your ZIP code on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map (opens in a new tab).

Official 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Maps. Tap a map to open it full size.

Maps: USDA Agricultural Research Service, with mapping by the PRISM Climate Group, Oregon State University.

Plant Patent

Not patented. This is the straight species, not a named variety, so there are no restrictions on growing it from seed or cuttings.

About the Elderberry

American elderberry grows wild all over Missouri, along streams and ponds and in old fields and roadsides. In June it’s covered in flat clusters of white flowers, followed in late summer by drooping clusters of small purple-black berries.

People cook the ripe berries into pies, jellies, and wine, and use the flowers for syrup, tea, and fritters. Elderberry is also grown commercially in Missouri for juice and other products, and the University of Missouri has studied it as a farm crop.

Choosing a Spot

Sun and moisture. It does best in a sunny spot with moist, well-drained soil. On poorly drained ground, plant on a raised bed or berm.
Room to spread. It spreads by root sprouts and forms a thicket unless you pull the sprouts. Plant it where a thicket is welcome, or plan on pulling sprouts.
Plant more than one. How elderberry is pollinated isn’t fully understood. It’s thought to be partly self-fruitful, but research suggests cross-pollination helps, so two or more plants are likely to bear better.

Planting

Plant dormant bare-root plants in early spring. Container plants that are already growing shouldn’t go out until late April or early May, after the risk of frost has passed.

Space plants about 4 feet apart for a hedgerow. The row fills in within two to three years as root sprouts come up.
Water it in well.
Don’t add nitrogen fertilizer at planting.
Pick off the flowers the first year. This puts the plant’s energy into roots. Expect a partial crop the second year and a full crop by the third.

Watering

Elderberry grown for fruit isn’t drought tolerant. Plan on 1 to 2 inches of water a week, especially in midsummer while the berries ripen. Drip irrigation is commonly used.

Mulch and Fertilizer

Mulch holds moisture and keeps weeds down, but leave room for new shoots to come up from the roots and crown. Keep weeds pulled while they’re small, because perennial weeds are hard to get out of an elderberry patch.

Get a soil test before planting and adjust the pH to 5.5 to 6.5. Skip nitrogen at planting; a light feeding can follow 4 to 8 weeks later.

Pruning

Prune in winter while the plant is dormant. A backyard elderberry can go unpruned for a year and still bear, but yearly pruning keeps it healthy and productive.

Standard method: Remove dead, diseased, or damaged stems, take out most stems three years old or older, and cut weak canes back to strong wood.
Cut to the ground: Many American elderberries also do well cut completely to the ground each winter. You get fewer but larger flower clusters, and the fruit ripens more evenly. Yield may be a little lower.
Suckers: Pull or cut root sprouts that come up where you don’t want them.

Gathering and disposing of the pruned stems removes overwintering mite eggs and disease.

Common Problems

Eriophyid mites: Microscopic mites that cup and crinkle the leaves and can destroy flowers and young fruit. They overwinter on the buds, so clearing away pruned stems in winter helps.
Japanese beetles: Feed on the leaves, flowers, and developing fruit in midsummer.
Spotted wing drosophila: A small fruit fly that lays eggs in ripening berries, ruining them quickly. Pick promptly and chill or freeze the fruit right away.
Elder borer: A longhorn beetle whose larvae tunnel into stems and roots, weakening or killing stems.
Diseases: Canker, powdery mildew, and leaf spots can show up. Spider mites and aphids also feed on it.
Birds: Birds eat the berries. Netting or scare devices help protect the crop.

Harvest

Berries ripen from late July into early September. Clip whole clusters once every berry in the cluster is fully colored. Strip the berries from the stems and pick out any leaves or bits of stem, which hold more of the toxic compounds. Cook the berries before eating them; don’t eat them raw or unripe. In a 1983 case reported by the CDC, people got sick from juice pressed with the leaves and stems still in it.

Good for Wildlife

As many as 45 kinds of birds eat the berries, along with raccoons, squirrels, and mice. Butterflies and other insects visit the flowers, and stem-nesting bees use the dead stems. Deer browse the leaves and twigs.

Availability

Currently out of stock until Spring 2027.

Our nursery stock changes through the season. Contact us to check what we have on hand, current sizes, and pricing.

Sources

Growing information on this page was checked against these public references:

Disclaimer: The information on this page is based on publicly available knowledge and research. Individual results may vary.

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